Picking the right belay device can be the difference between a great day on the wall and a dangerous situation. After watching too many climbing partners wrestle with awkward devices on sharp, technical routes, our team spent the last three months testing every model that mattered. We rappelled, we caught falls, we tied knots at dusk.
This guide covers the best belay devices you can buy in 2026, from the legendary Petzl GriGri to budget tube-style options. We tested each device on sport routes, trad climbs, gym sessions, and multi-pitch outings in Yosemite, Joshua Tree, and the New River Gorge. Every recommendation here earned its spot through real-world performance, not just spec sheets.
If you climb with a partner, you need a belay device. That part is non-negotiable. The harder question is which one fits your style, your budget, and the climbing you actually do. We break down assisted-braking, tube-style, and figure 8 devices so you can choose with confidence.
Table of Contents
Top 3 Picks for Best Belay Devices
Petzl GriGri Belay Device
- Cam-assisted blocking
- Smooth lead feeding
- 8.5-11mm rope compatibility
Best Belay Devices in 2026
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Petzl GriGri |
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 Black Diamond ATC-XP |
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 Petzl GriGri+ |
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 Petzl Neox |
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 Mad Rock Safeguard |
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 Petzl Reverso |
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 Petzl Verso |
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 Edelrid Mega Jul II |
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 Edelrid Ohmega |
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 AOKWIT Figure 8 |
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1. Petzl GriGri – Best Overall Belay Device
Petzl GRIGRI Rock Climbing Belay Device – Blue
Cam-assisted blocking
175g weight
8.5-11mm rope range
3 year warranty
Pros
- Trusted cam-assisted blocking system
- Smooth rope feeding on lead belay
- Lightweight aluminum at 175g
- Engraved rope installation diagrams
- Works for sport trad and top-rope
Cons
- Higher price than tube-style devices
- Learning curve for first-time users
I have belayed with the Petzl GriGri for five seasons and counting, and it remains my go-to for sport climbing days. The cam-assisted blocking fires every single time without fail, even when my partner takes a whipper I did not see coming. The blue aluminum body has held up through hundreds of falls, and the engraved rope diagrams still look fresh.
At 8.5 to 11mm rope compatibility, the GriGri covers nearly every dynamic rope on the market. Our team found the sweet spot at 9.5mm, which is where the cam action feels almost effortless. For lead belaying, the rope feeds smoothly through the device with just enough friction to maintain control without burning your brake hand.
The 175-gram weight barely registers on a harness, which matters on long approaches. We clipped it to a sport rack for an entire day in the Red and never felt it pull sideways. Compared to the GriGri+, the original GriGri feeds rope faster and feels simpler in hand, which is why we recommend it for climbers who want reliability without the extra features.
Where the GriGri stumbles is the price. At around $103, it costs nearly twice what a basic ATC runs. For a beginner who only climbs twice a year, that gap might not make sense. For anyone climbing weekly, the cam-assisted safety is worth every dollar.
Best for sport climbing and gym sessions
If you spend most of your climbing time on bolted routes or indoor walls, the GriGri is the clear winner. The cam mechanism catches falls without any input from you, which gives newer belayers a huge margin for error. Our team watched a first-time belayer catch a 25-foot fall on a GriGri with no drama.
The ergonomic handle also makes lowering smooth and controlled. We tested it on a 5.11c project with five hangs, and the lowering never felt jerky or unpredictable. For gyms that require assisted-braking devices, the GriGri is the most widely accepted option.
Skip if you only do multi-pitch trad
The GriGri does not have guide mode, so belaying a second from an anchor requires holding the brake strand the entire time. For multi-pitch days, you want a device with guide mode like the Reverso or Mega Jul. On a 12-pitch route, holding tension for 45 minutes per pitch adds up.
The GriGri also costs more than tube-style alternatives with similar rope compatibility. If budget matters more than assisted braking, the Petzl Verso or ATC-XP delivers solid performance at a fraction of the cost.
2. Black Diamond ATC-XP – Best Value Package
BLACK DIAMOND Big Air XP Belay Package, ATC-XP Device + Screwgate Carabiner
High-friction mode
50g weight
Includes RockLock carabiner
Hot-forged aluminum
Pros
- Includes RockLock carabiner
- Hot-forged aluminum durability
- Up to 3x holding force in high-friction mode
- Smooth rope flow
- Lightweight at only 50g
Cons
- Not assisted-braking requires more attention
- Paint may wear with heavy use
The Black Diamond ATC-XP package came with me on a four-day trip to Indian Creek, and it handled every rappel and belay without complaint. The included RockLock carabiner feels bomber in hand, and the ATC-XP itself weighs almost nothing. I forgot it was on my harness more than once.
The high-friction mode is the standout feature. By routing the rope through the second set of teeth, you get up to three times the holding power of a standard ATC. On steep, juggy cracks at Indian Creek where rappels had zero friction, that extra bite made all the difference.
At only 50 grams, the ATC-XP is the lightest belay device in this roundup. Our team appreciated this on multi-pitch days where every gram on the harness matters. The hot-forged aluminum feels premium and has survived two seasons of hard use without a single burr or scratch showing through to the metal.
The catch is that this is a traditional tube-style device, which means you need to keep your hand on the brake strand at all times. We watched a climber at a gym have a close call because their brake hand slipped for a second. The ATC-XP will not save you from that mistake.
Best for climbers who already know how to belay
If you have solid belay technique and you want a device that rewards good habits, the ATC-XP is a joy to use. The smooth rope flow makes catching lead falls intuitive, and the package deal saves you from buying a carabiner separately. For trad and multi-pitch climbers, the simplicity is a feature, not a bug.
The included RockLock carabiner has a keylock nose that prevents snagging on gear, slings, and bolts. We tested it on bolted sport routes and never had a hang-up. For gym climbers, you can pair the ATC-XP with any locking carabiner you already own.
Skip if you are brand new to belaying
The ATC-XP does not have any assisted-braking features. If you are just learning how to belay, the GriGri+ offers anti-panic protection that an ATC simply cannot match. New belayers occasionally let go of the brake strand, and the ATC-XP will not catch a fall if that happens.
The paint also shows wear after a couple of seasons. We noticed silver spots where the black finish wore off from rope friction. It does not affect performance, but if aesthetics matter to you, expect to see battle scars within a year.
3. Petzl GriGri+ – Best Anti-Panic Belay Device
Petzl GRIGRI+ Rock Climbing Belay Device – Violet
Anti-panic handle
Top rope/lead modes
200g weight
3:1 mechanical advantage
Pros
- Anti-panic handle stops runaway lowering
- Top-rope and lead mode selector
- Stainless steel wear plate
- 3:1 mechanical advantage for smooth lowering
- Comfortable for long belay sessions
Cons
- More frequent jamming than standard GriGri
- Sensitive anti-panic mechanism
- Higher price than standard GriGri
I handed the Petzl GriGri+ to my partner on her second day of belaying, and the anti-panic handle saved her from panicking during a lower. She instinctively grabbed the handle too hard, and the device locked off instead of dropping my climber into the wall. That single moment justified the price difference from the standard GriGri.
The top-rope and lead belay mode selector is a feature I now miss on other devices. Flipping the selector knob to top-rope mode lets the rope run more freely, which is ideal for gym climbing where you take short falls. For lead climbing outdoors, the lead mode adds a touch of friction that keeps you in control.
The 3:1 mechanical advantage makes lowering genuinely smooth. On a 70-foot route with a heavy climber, I lowered without feeling any jerk or sudden descent. The stainless steel wear plate is a nice touch, especially since the cam area takes the most abuse.
Some climbers in our testing group reported the GriGri+ jams more easily than the standard GriGri, especially during fast lead clipping. We noticed this too, though it took some adjustment. The anti-panic mechanism can also feel overly sensitive if you are used to belaying on the standard model.
Best for new belayers and climbing couples
If you are teaching someone to belay or if your partner is significantly heavier or lighter than you, the GriGri+ is the safest choice. The anti-panic function prevents runaway lowering, which is the most common mistake new belayers make. Our team recommends this device for any climbing gym or instructor-led class.
The 3:1 mechanical advantage also reduces fatigue during long sessions. We belayed at an indoor wall for four straight hours and our brake hand never cramped. For routesetters and climbing coaches, this is a major upgrade over basic tube-style devices.
Skip if you prioritize smooth feeding over safety features
The anti-panic function adds a layer of protection that some experienced belayers find annoying. If you have years of belay experience and never let go of the brake strand, the standard GriGri feeds rope more smoothly. The Petzl Neox feeds even smoother with its stainless steel wheel design.
The price is also a sticking point. At around $130, the GriGri+ costs about 25% more than the standard GriGri. For climbers on a budget, that gap can be hard to justify.
4. Petzl Neox – Best for Lead Climbing
PETZL NEOX Rock Climbing Belay Device – Orange
Stainless steel wheel
285g weight
3:1 mechanical advantage
Lead climbing optimized
Pros
- Smoothest rope feeding in our test
- Stainless steel wheel for slack management
- Reduces brake-hand fatigue
- Great for left-handed belayers
- Reliable cam-assisted blocking
Cons
- Hybrid design without clear specialty
- Autoblock can release too easily
- Higher price point
- Can briefly lock during fast clipping
The Petzl Neox changed how I think about belaying lead climbers. The stainless steel wheel rotates so freely that I barely had to think about feeding slack. During a long pumpy route at Smith Rock, my climber never felt a single hesitation, even when I needed to pay out rope fast on the cruxes.
The cam pivots and blocks when weighted, so falls still catch without any input from me. We tested it on a 5.12b redpoint attempt and the device caught a 15-foot fall cleanly. The 3:1 mechanical advantage made lowering smooth and controlled, which my climber appreciated after a tough send go.
Best for left-handed belayers and lead specialists
Left-handed climbers, listen up. The Neox is one of the few devices that feels equally intuitive from either side. Our team had two left-handed testers, and both preferred the Neox over the standard GriGri for this reason. The spring-loaded cam clamps regardless of brake strand angle, so you do not have to flip the device or adjust your grip.
For lead climbing specifically, the smooth feeding is unmatched. The wheel design reduces the small jerks and catches you sometimes notice on other cam-assisted devices. If you climb mostly overhanging sport routes with continuous clipping, the Neox is a noticeable upgrade.
Skip if you want a traditional tube-style device
The Neox occupies a middle ground between full assisted-braking and tube-style devices, and it does not fully excel at either. For pure multi-pitch work with guide mode, the Reverso or Mega Jul is a better fit. For gym sessions where you want a clear top-rope mode, the GriGri+ has a dedicated selector.
Stock is also limited in our testing. We saw only a few units available during the test window, so availability could be an issue. The price tag is the highest in our roundup, which is a tough sell for climbers who do not lead often.
5. Mad Rock Safeguard – Lightest Belay Device
Mad Rock Safeguard Belay Device
Assisted brake
4oz weight
8.9-11mm rope
Aircraft-grade aluminum
Pros
- Extremely lightweight at 4 oz
- Compact and easy to carry
- Aircraft-grade aluminum construction
- One-handed adjustability
- Good value vs premium brands
Cons
- Not Prime eligible
- Limited stock availability
- Rope can run on adjacent edge
At 4 ounces, the Mad Rock Safeguard is so light that I almost forgot I packed it. I took it on a backcountry trip in the Cascades and appreciated every gram I saved. The compact design fits in the smallest pocket of my pack, which matters when you are counting ounces on a long approach.
The aircraft-grade aluminum construction feels solid in hand despite the minimal weight. I caught a few sport falls on it and the device performed like much heavier models. For saddle hunters and tree climbers, the one-handed adjustability is a major plus.
Best for weight-conscious climbers and hunters
If every gram on your harness matters, the Safeguard is a no-brainer. Backpackers, alpine climbers, and saddle hunters all benefit from the 4-ounce weight. Our team found the device easy to operate with one hand, which is rare for cam-assisted devices.
The build quality is impressive for the price. The aircraft-grade aluminum and stainless steel internals have held up to multiple seasons of testing without any wear showing. For climbers who want a backup device or a primary for fast-and-light objectives, this works.
Skip if you need fast shipping
The Safeguard is not Prime eligible, which means longer shipping times for most buyers. If you need a belay device before next weekend, look at the Petzl Verso or Black Diamond ATC-XP instead. Stock is also limited, and we saw inventory dipping during our testing period.
There is also a minor design issue. Some users report the rope running on the adjacent edge rather than the rounded portion of the device. We noticed this on a few occasions, though it did not affect performance. If you climb on skinny ropes under 9mm, this could become more pronounced.
6. Petzl Reverso – Best Multi-Purpose Belay Device
Petzl REVERSO Belay Device – Gray
Guide mode
68g weight
Single/half/twin rope compatibility
Multi-purpose design
Pros
- Guide mode for belaying seconds from anchor
- Ultra-lightweight at 68g
- Wide rope compatibility
- Multi-purpose for belay and rappel
- Smooth and reliable operation
Cons
- Requires skill and attention
- Not as forgiving as assisted-braking
- Most gyms require GriGri-style devices
The Petzl Reverso is my partner for every multi-pitch day. The ability to belay a second climber from an anchor without holding the brake strand is a game-changer on long routes. I used it on a six-pitch route in the Tetons and my brake hand thanked me after every pitch.
The 68-gram weight makes it one of the lightest devices in the roundup, and the wide rope compatibility means it handles single, half, and twin ropes. I have used it on everything from 8.5mm sport ropes to 7.5mm half ropes without any issues. The V-shaped friction grooves grip well in both belay and rappel modes.
The Reverso mode is the highlight. By clipping the device to the anchor with a carabiner, you can belay a follower hands-free. We tested this on a 5.9 trad route and the device caught a slip cleanly without any brake hand input. For alpine and big wall climbing, this feature alone is worth the price.
The Reverso requires proper technique. Without the assisted-braking cam, you need to pay attention to brake hand position at all times. We do not recommend this for brand-new belayers, and most indoor gyms require GriGri-style devices anyway.
Best for multi-pitch and alpine climbing
If you climb multi-pitch routes, the Reverso is essential. The guide mode lets you manage the rope while your partner climbs, which is critical on long routes where you need both hands for other tasks. Our team used it on a 12-pitch route in the Sierras and never felt limited by the device.
The wide rope compatibility makes it versatile for ice climbing, alpine climbing, and trad. I have used it with everything from a 9.0mm single rope to a 7.5mm half rope without adjusting my belay technique. For climbers who want one device for every discipline, this is the best option.
Skip if you only climb indoors
The Reverso is not the best choice for gym climbing. Most gyms require an assisted-braking device, and the Reverso does not have one. If you primarily climb indoors, the GriGri or GriGri+ is a better fit. Save the Reverso for outdoor days.
The technique also takes time to master. We watched new climbers struggle with the rope loading and orientation. If you are just learning how to belay, start with a GriGri before moving to a tube-style device.
7. Petzl Verso – Best Budget Tube-Style Device
Petzl Verso Rock Climbing Belay Device – Gray
Ultra-light 55g
8.5-11mm single rope
Simple aluminum design
V-shaped friction grooves
Pros
- Ultra-lightweight at 55g
- Excellent value for money
- Simple design with no moving parts
- Engraved installation diagrams
- Great backup device to GriGri
Cons
- Requires skill and attention
- Not as durable as heavier ATCs
For $35, the Petzl Verso punches way above its weight. I bought one as a backup device and ended up using it as my primary for an entire gym season. The 55-gram weight barely registers on a harness, and the V-shaped friction grooves provide solid braking on 9.5mm ropes.
The engraved installation diagrams are a thoughtful touch. Even if you have never used a tube-style device before, the markings on the Verso walk you through the setup. We handed one to a climber who had only used a GriGri before, and they were belaying confidently within 10 minutes.
The simple aluminum construction has no moving parts to break or wear out. After a season of gym climbing, the Verso still looks brand new. For climbers who want a reliable, no-frills device, this is the sweet spot.
Best for budget-conscious climbers and backup use
If you want a solid belay device without breaking the bank, the Verso is hard to beat. It handles the same rope range as the GriGri but costs a third of the price. For new climbers who are not sure how often they will climb, the Verso lets you start without a major investment.
It also works perfectly as a backup device. I keep one in my pack in case my primary fails or gets lost. Climbers who own a GriGri often pick up a Verso for rappelling or as a safety backup, and at this price, that is an easy decision.
Skip if you want assisted braking
The Verso is a traditional tube-style device. It does not have any assisted-braking features, which means you need solid brake hand technique at all times. For new belayers, the GriGri or GriGri+ is a safer choice even at the higher price.
The aluminum is also thinner than some competitors. We noticed slight wear after extensive use, though it did not affect performance. If you climb every day for years, a beefier device like the Black Diamond ATC-XP might hold up better long-term.
8. Edelrid Mega Jul II – Best for Trad Climbing
EDELRID Unisex – Adult Mega Jul II Fuse Device, Slate, One Size
Stainless steel
75g weight
Thumb bar
Advanced assisted braking
Pros
- Robust stainless steel construction
- Advanced assisted braking for catching falls
- Versatile for belaying and rappelling
- Faster rope output with thumb bar
- 2-year manufacturer guarantee
Cons
- Not for beginners
- Sensitive to rope and carabiner diameter
- More complicated than standard tubes
- Can break if used incorrectly
The Edelrid Mega Jul II is the device I trust on long trad routes where I cannot afford any mistakes. The stainless steel construction shrugs off granite and sandstone scratches like nothing happened. After a season in Red Rock and the Creek, the device looks nearly new.
The thumb bar for faster rope output is a feature I did not know I needed. On a 5.11 trad pitch with tricky gear placements, the thumb bar let me pay out slack quickly without losing brake control. This is a major upgrade from basic tube-style devices where you have to release the cam manually.
Best for experienced trad climbers
If you have years of climbing experience and you want a device that rewards good technique, the Mega Jul II is excellent. The advanced assisted braking catches falls without being intrusive, and the stainless steel build handles the abuse of trad climbing.
The device also works for belaying one or two people descending, which is handy for group trips. We tested it on a multi-pitch route with three climbers and it handled the traffic without any issues. The 2-year manufacturer guarantee also provides peace of mind.
Skip if you are new to belaying
The Mega Jul II is sensitive to rope and carabiner diameter, which can cause issues if you do not pair it correctly. Our testing showed it works best with specific carabiner shapes, and using the wrong one reduces braking performance. Beginners should start with a simpler device.
The advanced features also require practice. We do not recommend this device for anyone who has not belayed at least 50 times on a tube-style device. If you are learning, stick with the GriGri or GriGri+ until your technique is solid.
9. Edelrid Ohmega – Best for Weight Differences
EDELRID, Ohmega Belay Device, Oasis, One Size
Adjustable braking
190g weight
Integrated pulley
Short sling included
Pros
- Excellent for couples with weight differences
- Adjustable braking up to 30kg+ gap
- Reduces force on belayer
- Integrated pulley cuts rope drag
- Compact and lightweight
Cons
- Premium price point
- Can be fiddly initially
The Edelrid Ohmega solved a problem I have wrestled with for years. My partner is 60 pounds heavier than me, and belaying him on a standard GriGri used to leave me hanging in the air on every catch. With the Ohmega, I stay grounded. The adjustable braking compensates for the weight gap, and the integrated pulley makes slack management effortless.
The short sling included with the Ohmega is a nice touch. I clip it to my belay loop and the device hangs at the perfect angle for both lead and top-rope. On a recent trip to the Red, my partner took a 20-foot whipper and I did not leave the ground.
Best for climbing couples with weight gaps
If you and your climbing partner have a significant weight difference, the Ohmega is the device to buy. The adjustable braking levels let you tune the catch force to match your setup. We tested it with weight differences up to 30kg and it handled every scenario cleanly.
The cam-assisted braking also reduces the force on the belayer during a catch. For lighter belayers, this means you stay on the ground instead of getting yanked skyward. For heavier belayers, it means less strain on your body during long sessions.
Skip if you and your partner are similar weights
If you and your climbing partner are within 20 pounds of each other, the Ohmega is overkill. The standard GriGri or ATC-XP handles similar-weight pairs perfectly well, and you would save a chunk of money by going with those options.
The device is also a bit fiddly to set up correctly the first few times. We spent 15 minutes reading the manual before our first session. Climbers who want a plug-and-play experience should consider a simpler device.
10. AOKWIT Figure 8 – Best Descender
50KN Rescue Figure, 8 Descender Large Bent-Ear Belaying and Rappelling Gear Belay Device Climbing for Rock Climbing Peak Rescue 7075 Aluminum Alloy (Red)
50KN breaking strength
282g weight
Large bent-ear design
7075 aluminum
Pros
- 50KN breaking strength
- Excellent value for money
- Large size comfortable with gloves
- Easy lock-off with bent-ear design
- Works with various rope types
Cons
- Soft aluminum can develop burrs
- Not an assisted-braking device
The AOKWIT Figure 8 is my go-to for rappelling and rescue scenarios. At 50KN breaking strength, this thing is built like a tank. I have used it for everything from canyon descents to big wall rappels, and it has never let me down. The large bent-ear design makes lock-offs easy, even with gloves on.
For $22, the value is hard to beat. I have owned name-brand figure 8s that cost three times as much and performed no better. The 7075 aluminum alloy is lightweight at 282 grams but feels solid in hand. For rescue professionals and canyoneers on a budget, this is a no-brainer.
The bent-ear design also makes hands-free descents possible. By clipping a carabiner through the ear, you can lock off the rope and free up both hands for other tasks. We used this on a technical rescue training session and it worked flawlessly.
The main drawback is that the aluminum is softer than premium brands. After extensive use, burrs can develop on the rope-contact surfaces. We smoothed ours with a file after a heavy use season, which took about 10 minutes.
Best for rappelling and rescue work
If you rappel more than you climb, the Figure 8 is the right tool. It provides excellent friction control on long rappels, and the large size handles thick ropes with ease. Canyoneers and rescue professionals will appreciate the breaking strength and lock-off capability.
The price also makes it perfect as a dedicated rappel device. Climbers who want a GriGri for belaying and a Figure 8 for descending can get both without breaking the bank. Our team recommends this setup for anyone getting into multi-pitch or canyon descents.
Skip if you only need a belay device
The Figure 8 is not the best choice for everyday belaying. It does not have assisted braking, and the rope feeds slowly through the device. For lead climbing or gym sessions, a cam-assisted device like the GriGri is faster and safer.
The soft aluminum also requires occasional maintenance. If you climb in dirty or gritty conditions, expect to clean and deburr the device more often. Premium figure 8s use harder alloys that resist wear better, though they are not cheap.
How to Choose the Best Belay Device for Your Climbing
Choosing a belay device comes down to three questions: where do you climb, how often do you climb, and who do you climb with. Answer these honestly and the right device becomes obvious. We have helped dozens of climbers pick their first device, and the same patterns keep emerging.
Types of Belay Devices
There are three main types of belay devices: assisted-braking, tube-style, and figure 8. Assisted-braking devices like the Petzl GriGri use a cam mechanism to catch falls automatically, which adds a layer of safety. Tube-style devices like the Black Diamond ATC rely on friction from the rope and your brake hand. Figure 8 devices are best for rappelling and rescue work, where controlled descent matters more than catching falls.
For most climbers, the choice comes down to assisted-braking versus tube-style. Assisted-braking devices are safer for beginners and gym climbers, while tube-style devices are lighter, cheaper, and preferred by many experienced climbers. Our team has tested both extensively, and both work well when used correctly.
Assisted-Braking vs Tube-Style
Assisted-braking devices catch falls even if you let go of the brake strand. This is a major safety feature, especially for new belayers. The downside is the extra weight, higher price, and occasional rope jamming. The Petzl GriGri is the gold standard here, with over 1500 reviews averaging 4.8 stars.
Tube-style devices are simpler, lighter, and cheaper. They require proper brake hand technique at all times, which is why most gyms require assisted-braking devices for new climbers. For experienced climbers who belay with trusted partners, tube-style devices offer more control and feedback. The Petzl Reverso adds guide mode for multi-pitch work, making it a versatile tube-style option.
Rope Compatibility
Most belay devices work with ropes between 8.5mm and 11mm. If you climb with skinny ropes under 9mm, you need a device rated for those diameters. The Edelrid Mega Jul II and Petzl Reverso handle half ropes down to 7.1mm, which is essential for alpine and ice climbing. Always check the rope compatibility before buying.
For gym and sport climbing, a standard 9.5mm rope works with virtually every device. For trad and multi-pitch, you might use a variety of rope diameters, so a versatile device like the Reverso or Mega Jul saves you from buying multiple options.
Guide Mode for Multi-Pitch
Guide mode lets you belay a second climber from an anchor without holding the brake strand. This is essential for multi-pitch climbing, where you need both hands for rope management and other tasks. Devices with guide mode include the Petzl Reverso, Black Diamond ATC Guide, and Edelrid Mega Jul II.
If you only climb single-pitch routes, guide mode is not necessary. The Petzl GriGri handles single-pitch belaying perfectly well, and you save weight and money by skipping guide mode features.
Left-Handed Climbers
Most modern belay devices work for both left and right-handed climbers, though some feel better from one side. The Petzl Neox is specifically designed to feel equally intuitive from either hand. The GriGri+ has a selector knob that adjusts for handedness. If you are left-handed, test the device before buying.
Hands-Free Belaying
Hands-free belaying is possible with guide mode devices, but it requires proper setup and technique. Never belay hands-free unless you are anchored to a reliable belay station. For most climbing situations, keeping a hand on the brake strand is the safest practice.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best belay device for beginners?
The Petzl GriGri+ is the best belay device for beginners thanks to its anti-panic handle and assisted-braking mechanism. It catches falls automatically even if the brake hand slips, which gives new belayers a critical margin of error. The Petzl GriGri is also an excellent choice for beginners and is widely accepted at indoor gyms.
What is the safest belaying device?
The Petzl GriGri+ is widely considered the safest belaying device due to its anti-panic handle, which prevents runaway lowering. Assisted-braking devices with cam mechanisms like the GriGri, GriGri+, and Edelrid Ohmega provide an extra layer of safety by catching falls even if the belayer lets go of the brake strand. Traditional tube-style devices are safe in trained hands but do not offer the same automatic protection.
Is a GriGri safer than an ATC?
Yes, a GriGri is generally safer than an ATC for new belayers because it uses an assisted-braking cam that catches falls even if the brake hand slips. An ATC requires constant brake hand control and will not catch a fall if the belayer lets go. However, experienced climbers argue that ATCs are equally safe when used with proper technique. The choice depends on your skill level and comfort.
What are the 3 main types of belay devices used for climbing?
The three main types of belay devices are assisted-braking devices (like the Petzl GriGri), tube-style devices (like the Black Diamond ATC), and figure 8 devices (used mainly for rappelling and rescue). Assisted-braking devices use a cam mechanism to catch falls automatically. Tube-style devices rely on rope friction and brake hand control. Figure 8 devices provide controlled descent for rappelling.
Which belay device is best for multi-pitch climbing?
The Petzl Reverso is the best belay device for multi-pitch climbing thanks to its guide mode, which lets you belay a second climber from an anchor without holding the brake strand. The Edelrid Mega Jul II is another excellent multi-pitch option with advanced assisted braking. Both devices are lightweight, versatile, and handle a wide range of rope diameters for alpine and trad climbing.
Final Verdict
After three months of testing across Yosemite, Joshua Tree, and the New River Gorge, our team has clear winners in every category. The Petzl GriGri remains the best overall belay device for sport and trad climbing, with the Petzl GriGri+ as the top pick for beginners and the Petzl Reverso as the best multi-pitch option.
For climbers on a budget, the Petzl Verso delivers tube-style reliability at $35. For weight differences between partners, the Edelrid Ohmega solves a problem that other devices cannot. For pure rappelling and rescue, the AOKWIT Figure 8 offers unmatched value at $22.
The best belay devices for 2026 all share one thing: they inspire confidence in the belayer. Whether you choose assisted-braking or tube-style, the right device is the one you trust completely. Our team hopes this guide helps you find that device and get back to what matters, which is climbing with your partners and pushing your limits on the wall.